Let’s talk about Azelaic Acid: how this component works, who should pay attention to skincare products containing it, and some important safety rules.
Azelaic Acid is neither an AHA nor a BHA; from a chemical standpoint, it’s a dicarboxylic acid. The structure of the molecule determines its mechanism of action, making Azelaic Acid different from alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids. Azelaic Acid is naturally found in grains, hence their picture here.
Products with Azelaic Acid have proven effects against acne, are helpful in cases of rosacea and hyperpigmentation, all due to the multifunctional action of this component.
Here’s how Azelaic Acid affects acne: the component significantly improves the condition of skin with comedones thanks to its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. It influences the skin’s keratinization process, affecting comedone formation. This action is more interesting and complex than keratolytic (we emphasize that this acid isn’t just about exfoliating cells). It affects the number of certain proteins during keratinocyte maturation. In simple terms: under the influence of Azelaic Acid, the stratum corneum becomes more flexible, soft, and hyperkeratosis decreases. Azelaic Acid changes the skin’s keratinization process, which is good news for those dealing with comedones.
Azelaic Acid is approved for use with rosacea (unlike AHAs and BHAs) and is beneficial for its correction due to its strong anti-inflammatory properties.
Pigmentation is another target for Azelaic Acid. The acid inhibits the activity of pigment-producing cells (melanocytes), which lightens spots of any origin.
Azelaic Acid can be used during pregnancy – this is a proven fact and is safe, as confirmed by medical recommendations. We suggest Azelaic Acid care for those who don’t want to pause acne treatment during pregnancy. Contraindications for using products with this component include individual sensitivity. Unfortunately, this cannot be predicted, so pay attention to how your skin reacts – any worsening (increased sensitivity, redness, itching, etc.) is a signal to stop using the product.
Since Azelaic Acid has strong antibacterial properties, it’s important to balance it with products that support a diverse microbiome. It’s also a good idea to choose a moisturizing product, as Azelaic Acid can dry the skin. However, this largely depends on the specific product and your skin condition.
You might come across both "pure" azelaic acid and its derivatives, such as a component called Azeloyl Glycine. It helps balance skin oiliness, moisturizes, and has a brightening effect. Derivatives of the main component are usually milder and better tolerated.
PRODUCTS WITH AZELAIC ACID AND ITS DERIVATIVES FROM SKINLIST
Medik8 Calmwise Color Correct is a corrective cream for redness. We recommend it as a daytime finishing care product for skin with rosacea. It contains azeloglycine, bakuchiol, aloe and white tea extracts, and bisabolol. It soothes the skin very quickly and has a light texture. We like it as a daytime product. Due to the presence of pigments, we do not recommend using it at night. The cream has a green color, which helps neutralize redness.
Mediplorer Sakura CO2 with Azelaic Acid offers a transformative skincare experience that combines the best of both worlds: deep cleansing and nourishment. One of the key ingredients, Azelaic Acid, is well-known for its ability to regulate skin metabolism and tackle common issues like clogged pores and keratin plugs. This makes it a perfect solution for individuals dealing with acne, rough texture, or uneven skin tone. Azelaic Acid also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive skin while providing gentle yet effective exfoliation and pore care.
The unique CO2 Gel Mask formula works in harmony with Azelaic Acid, promoting better absorption of active ingredients and enhancing skin oxygenation. This advanced technology boosts circulation and helps with cell regeneration, leaving your skin feeling rejuvenated, clear, and radiant.