According to statistics, uneven skin tone is one of the most common concerns that people seek help for from cosmetologists worldwide. Hyperpigmentation is the uneven darkening of the skin due to the accumulation of melanin pigment. The severity of the issue can vary—from barely noticeable uneven skin tone to well-defined spots of different sizes.
Why Pigmentation Occurs and Its Types
Skin darkening is a protective reaction of our body. Melanin protects skin cells from damage caused by UV radiation. A tan, for example, is nothing more than the skin’s defense mechanism in response to sun exposure. However, pigment cells are stimulated not only by sunlight.
Hyperpigmentation can occur due to inflammatory processes in the skin, injuries, certain medications that increase skin sensitivity to sunlight, and hormonal stimulation. Individual susceptibility to pigmentation varies from person to person. Life stages also influence this process—for instance, hormonal changes during pregnancy can trigger pigmentation or darken existing spots.
Hyperpigmentation can manifest in different ways. Post-inflammatory pigmentation appears where inflammatory elements or comedones were present. Post-traumatic pigmentation develops in areas where the skin has been damaged. Uneven skin coloration may result from photo-damage, appearing as diffuse pigmentation across the face or as separate spots.
You may have also heard of melasma and lentigo—these are specific types of hyperpigmentation.
How to Build a Skincare Routine for Pigmented Skin
Pigmentation formation is a complex process influenced by many factors. It involves the stimulation of pigment-producing cells, the actual synthesis of melanin, the transport of melanin to neighboring cells, and its accumulation in the epidermis. Therefore, skincare should address all these stages.
It is essential to:
• Protect the skin from the sun, which stimulates melanocytes.
• Inhibit the transfer of pigment into skin cells.
• Accelerate the renewal of surface skin layers to promote the exfoliation of pigment-loaded cells.
Rule #1 – Mandatory Sun Protection
This includes not only regular and proper use of sunscreen but also physical protection (hats, clothing that covers the skin) and habit changes (staying in the shade during peak sun hours, avoiding intentional sunbathing).
Rule #2 – Use Antioxidants in Your Routine
Excessive sun exposure and other environmental factors cause oxidative stress—free radicals that damage skin cells and can stimulate melanin production. That’s why antioxidants are essential in anti-pigmentation skincare.
Effective antioxidants include vitamins C, E, A, glutathione, ferulic acid, ubiquinone, flavonoids, plant extracts, superoxide dismutase, and others.
Rule #3 – Combine Multiple Brightening Agents
Brightening ingredients fall into different groups:
• Group 1 – Ingredients that inhibit melanin production: arbutin, resveratrol, tranexamic acid, licorice and mulberry extract, resorcinol derivatives, azelaic acid, kojic acid, vitamin C.
• Group 2 – Ingredients that block pigment transfer from melanocytes: the most well-known is niacinamide.
• Group 3 – Ingredients that accelerate skin renewal and exfoliation: all types of exfoliants (AHA acids, enzymes, scrubs, peeling gels), as well as retinoids.
Skin-brightening formulas combine multiple brightening and antioxidant agents for faster and more effective results.
Examples of such products will be covered in Part 2 of this article.
You can consult with our specialists to select the right brightening skincare for you – https://skinlist.nl/en/pages/consultation
Find all pigmentation-fighting products in this section – https://skinlist.nl/en/collections/pigmentation
