Tania Shalahina explains the principles of acne management through home skincare. In this article, we discuss active ingredients for skin with inflammation and comedones, the specifics of choosing cosmetics for different levels of skin sensitivity, and the importance of a comprehensive approach.
For many women, acne can feel like a curse. Although society is becoming more tolerant of the issue, comparing ourselves to the filtered perfection of social media can distort self-perception, and skin imperfections may significantly affect quality of life. During times of war and elevated stress, this impact becomes even greater. The skin often responds to stress with flare-ups, adding another burden to an already overwhelmed mind.
This article focuses on the management of mild to moderate acne (grades 1 and 2) and on cosmetic support during remission in more severe cases. Grade 3 and 4 acne require treatment under the supervision of a qualified dermatologist.
Acne is usually caused by four factors acting simultaneously:
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A tendency toward inflammation
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Excessive oil production
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Formation of comedones
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The activity of C. acnes bacteria
Each of these factors has its own underlying causes, but identifying which one is most important in a particular individual is often impossible. A comprehensive acne strategy aims to address all four mechanisms simultaneously. Therefore, skincare should be able to:
• Reduce inflammation
• Control excess oil production
• Prevent comedone formation
• Suppress C. acnes bacteria
It is important to emphasize C. acnes specifically rather than targeting all skin bacteria. A healthy and diverse skin microbiome is essential and should be preserved. Moreover, C. acnes is a normal resident of the skin and generally becomes problematic only when comedones are present.
Most acne-fighting ingredients are multifunctional, although each has its own strengths. For example:
• Acids primarily target comedones
• Retinoids address both comedones and inflammation
• Niacinamide helps regulate oil production and reduce inflammation
• Benzoyl peroxide targets bacteria
These are only the most well-known examples. Other valuable ingredients include prebiotics, probiotics, peptides, and botanical extracts, all of which can contribute meaningfully to overall results.
The large number of available products and active ingredients often makes acne care seem complicated. However, treatment becomes much simpler when it is based on an understanding of both the disease process and the condition of the skin. Acne-prone skin can generally be divided into two categories: resistant skin and sensitive skin.
Resistant Acne-Prone Skin
Resistant skin is not sensitive. It does not sting, itch, hurt, or become excessively red. It generally tolerates peels, acids, exfoliation, and intensive treatments well. If not for the acne itself, you might hardly notice this skin type.
This type of skin usually responds well to conventional acne therapies. The key is to find the right combination of products while ensuring that all four aspects of acne are addressed: inflammation, comedones, oil production, and C. acnes.
A salicylic acid toner alone is rarely sufficient. Acne management requires a complete regimen. It is also beneficial when active ingredients are not merely present in the formula but are highlighted by the manufacturer as key actives, as this often suggests meaningful concentrations and expected efficacy. Rather than focusing exclusively on ingredient lists, pay attention to which ingredients the brand identifies as primary actives.
Sensitive Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive skin presents a very different challenge. It may sting, itch, hurt, and become intensely red for extended periods after even minor irritation. It often reacts poorly to peels and acids. This type of skin can significantly affect daily comfort and quality of life.
Sensitivity can also be acquired through excessive use of products intended for resistant skin.
As a result, sensitive skin often struggles with the traditional acne-care approach based on acids, high-strength retinoids, and aggressive cleansing. For this reason, I generally recommend avoiding acids and benzoyl peroxide initially while retaining niacinamide and retinoids.
Why Retinoids?
A common question is: if retinoids can be irritating, why recommend them for sensitive skin?
The answer is that retinoids fundamentally change skin physiology. They help prevent the formation of comedones, support healthier skin function, and are microbiome-friendly compared with many acids. They also help brighten and firm the skin.
Even sensitive skin can gradually adapt to retinoids. The goal is to select the gentlest form available, introduce it slowly, and compensate for any irritation with supportive skincare.
A suitable routine should include:
• Gentle cleansing
• Plenty of prebiotics and probiotics
• Botanical extracts
• Hydrating ingredients
• Soothing ingredients
Although retinoids are often associated with dryness, their ability to reduce oil production remains somewhat debated. Therefore, combining them with niacinamide, zinc, or Avocutin can be beneficial. Prebiotics and probiotics can also help support microbial balance and address the bacterial component of acne.
A reasonable question is whether this gentler approach can also be used for resistant skin.
Absolutely. In many cases, it may even be preferable to start with a gentler strategy and only introduce more aggressive treatments if the response is insufficient.
Conclusion
Acne should be managed through a comprehensive approach. Effective skincare should:
• Reduce inflammation
• Prevent comedone formation
• Regulate oil production
• Suppress the growth of C. acnes bacteria
To minimize side effects, it is often best to begin with a sensitive-skin approach that contains as few potentially irritating ingredients as possible. If results are insufficient and the skin proves to be resistant, stronger active ingredients can be introduced gradually.
For sensitive skin, the goal is to find the most effective yet gentle combination of retinoids and anti-inflammatory ingredients until the desired results are achieved.
