As you know, here at SKINLIST, we are geeks of sunscreens. Do you know that we check the UV filters of every sunscreen we put on our web shop and we do not sell the products with the UV filters (or textures) we don't like? Here we created a guide for the sunscreens range in our project SKINLIST but also explained some fundamental things about sun protection and our vision of it.
In our SPF products despite stable and safe UV filters we always seek smart formulations. It should always be broad UV spectrum protection from 280 to 400 nm and preferable protection from HEV light from 400 to 450. The textures of sunscreen products should be as comfortable as possible and do not cause breakdown.
UV filters, mineral and chemical, actually we love both. We do not think that mineral filters are safer than chemical, because we don't think that EU approved UV filters are somehow dangerous at all. Let's briefly compare physical and chemical UV filters but do not forget that every sunscreen without exception has a «2mg rule» — to get the SPF claimed at the bottle you should apply 2 mg of sunscreen on 1 cm2 of your skin. For the average face it is about 1,2ml or 1/3 teaspoon. So if the texture is heavy, it is not the option to use less product and rub it properly. Unfortunately it doesn't work with sun protection.
Mineral filters are great because they protect from the wide spectrum of UV radiation, and they stay on top of the skin and that's why they are more neutral to it (which is a great option for a sensitive skin). But because they stay on top they could be easily wiped out and left the skin without protection. One may say the nano-size penetrates a little bit into the skin — that's true, but here appears another issue — the white color. Mineral filters are white, if the products with them are not white — they are tinted. Not everyone loves tinted sunscreens, but if you want 2-in-1, sun protection and kind of foundation — those we have at SKINLIST has nice shades and light textures. Mineral filters in SKINLIST products range are Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide (nothing new).
Chemical filters are great because they penetrate into the skin so in general they protect better, because even if you touch the skin they are still there. Normally smart formulas use several UV filters so they also protect from the wide spectrum of UV radiation. Also chemical UV filters are transparent — so they are suitable for all people and skincare habits. But there are exceptions — there are several «not so good» UV filters which we don't like. Our «black list» is pretty short, there is Avobenzone (INCI Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) because it is famous irritant and could be the cause of contact allergic dermatitis, Octocrylene (INCI Octocrylene) — because it is also irritant and especially in combination with Avobenzone, and Oxybenzone (INCI Benzophenone-3), because it is also irritant and in concentration more than 6% considered as not safe according to EU laws. (1,2). All other chemical UV filters are great for the skin, especially the new ones (UVINUL A PLUS, TINOSORB S etc), they are stable, not so «heavy» as mineral ones and products with them we have here at SKINLIST have wonderful textures.
Now we will explain to you our sunscreen products and give advice for which skin type and conditions they work best.
Heliocare 360° Mineral Tolerance Fluid SPF50
It has only mineral filters, however it is pretty light. It is tinted, but has light coverage. Heliocare Mineral Tolerance Fluid is great if you have some kind of dermatoses on skin, like eczema, psoriasis or atopic dermatitis or if you are prone to skin allergies. Also it works well for acne if skin is not so oily. Also, if you have some kind of anxiety about chemical filters during pregnancy or breast-feeding — that will be the best choice. It is water resistant so it is also great for a beach vacation or sport.
Heliocare 360° A-R Emulsion SPF50
This product is for the skin prone to redness (like couperos) or with the common dermatosis, when facial blood vessels are constantly dilated, called rosacea. So this skin is simultaneously sensitive and turns red super easily, sometimes it has red areas almost all the time. Heliocare 360° A-R Emulsion comprises a blend of new stable chemical filter Tinosorb A2B and physical filters (nano size) — so it protects from the UV, HEV and IR rays really well. Also A-R Emulsion calms the skin and protects blood vessels from oxidative stress. It is slightly tinted and the texture is really light. Heliocare 360° A-R Emulsion is our all time bestseller. However it is not water resistant so for a beach vacation it is better to choose another sunscreen or do not dive in this one.
Medik8 ADVANCED DAY ULTIMATE PROTECT SPF50
If your main task is maintaining healthy skin, aging well and protecting the skin from the external harmful factors like pollution — that is the product for you. It is the product only with the stable chemical filters and that's why it is transparent. The most interesting part is that Medik8 Advanced Day Ultimate Protect is strengthened by DNA repair enzymes, photolyases which are also encapsulated for better penetration. Photolyases are small chemical miracles because they help to repair our genes from the damage caused by free radicals and the result is prevention of wrinkles, pigmentation and sagging skin. SFP 50 is the highest — so that is perfect for city and sunny vacation as well, but not for a beach because it does not claim water resistance. The only thing is if you have really oily skin we recommend starting from the sample, luckily you can have one of them for free in our web store if you make an order over 50 Euro.
Medik8 DAILY RADIANCE VITAMIN C C-Tetra Cream SPF 30 Two-in-One Moisturiser
As you can read from the name it is a moisturiser and an SPF together — but to tell you the truth all the sunscreens moisturize the skin in some way. Because it has SPF30 it is lighter than other Medik8 products with SPF. It also has only chemical UV filters so it is transparent. But actually Medik8 DAILY RADIANCE VITAMIN C Two-in-One Moisturiser is so amazing because of the high concentration of stable Vitamin C. It comprises 7% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate which is really a lot. So if you need to get a vitamin C serum and a moisturizer and a sunscreen in one bottle — here it is. It is ideal for city life, but because it is SPF30 and the absence of water resistance for a beach go for another option.
That was the first 4 products, just to not overload you with the information. Coming weeks we will add part 2 with the guide on how to use sunscreen according to the UV index and will explain the rest of the great products we have for you.
We also remind you that if you want to be sure of the choice it is better to go for an online consultation with our experts.
Stay tuned
your smart skincare advisors SKINLIST
References
1 https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32022R1176
2 Wolff MS, Teitelbaum SL, McGovern K, Pinney SM, Windham GC, Galvez M, Pajak A, Rybak M, Calafat AM, Kushi LH, Biro FM; Breast Cancer and Environment Research Program. Environmental phenols and pubertal development in girls. Environ Int. 2015 Nov;84:174-80. doi: 10.1016/j.envint.2015.08.008. Epub 2015 Aug 31. PMID: 26335517; PMCID: PMC4570862.
